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What are you doing with your ammeter?

Have you installed an efire on a 8BA?

Buick always had ohv engines from their begining.

Great video's, thanks for all of the video's you post. I ordered the 12 volt conversion kit from Vintage Auto Garage for my 1939 Ford Deluxe Coupe. I;ve got everything installed. The lights work as well as the horn and the dash lights and gauges but, when I push the start button, nothing happens. I really don't understand how the start button functions with only one wire but, that's the way it is designed. That wire goes to a relay under the dash mounted on the firewall. That relay was not in the kit so it was not changed. I have checked and rechecked my wiring and everything looks correct. Do you have any ideas for me ? That relay is spotwelded to the firewall. Should I replace it? If so, do you have a part number or description for me. Also you recommend a fuse in the wire going from the start button to the coil but, I'm not sure what amp fuse to use.

The tea pot carb intake also accepts a small base chevy carb or ? Ive heard that from ol fellers that the mercs had same intake an they swap carbs an the power level would come up noticably idk way b4 my time lol. But god i love em. ❤ i got a 50 custom sedan. Flathead 8.

Cant u get a set of truck exhaust manifolds 2 run duals wit factory manifolds??

Can you show the difference in open drive and close drive and can one be changed to the other?

I've been looking for a video for a wiring harness for a 67 impala for years. This is the closest thing I've found I really hope this helps us get it in!

2 comments. 1) the whole reason we pull out the DC generator and replace it with an AC alternator (and rectify it back to DC) is that the genny has almost no output at slow speeds or idle. We have to be going about 20mph to actually start charging the batt. The alternator puts out high power right from the get go. 2) For those doing this conversion, keep your 6V starter. They are robust and the 12V just makes them faster and higher torque. Mine is still starting my Chevy 235 after 30 years. Wait until it burns out before replacing it.

Water wetter and distilled water.

Once the one wire alternator starts to charge, will it not continue to charge no matter the RPM, until engine is shut down?

My old Triumph 650 motorcycle is 12 volt positive ground, from the factory you indicate this is bad/unsafe situation...no worries great video

Where can I get a complete harness like this for my LN166 hilux. Please advise.

Wow ! Glad I found your website. I look forward to watching all that you have put together. Thanks!

Would 49 ford custom swap over to model a?

This fits perfectly for what I'm about to do. same car, same color even. so everything will look the same when I go do it. Thanks!

I have a 78-7006 with the newer gears and double synchros , but the case looks bad where the bottom cluster has that 4 way notched bushing , bushing looks bad and case is eaten away some where the bushing was spinning , I have a good 48-7006 case that has older gear set and is popping out of gear , can I put all the newer gears with a rebuild kit into the 48 case ? It’s going into a 36 truck , I also have a 18-7006 case that’s perfect but I’ve read that can’t be used with the bigger clutch , thank you in advance

What should I get for a 1988 dodge Daytona shelby a dash harness

Debating whether or not to replace the harness in my 65 chevelle. After watching this I think I will go with a new harness. Thanks for the video. I know it’s a lot of work

now why wouldnt you put 12v to the chassis? if you could fuse the circuits?

Great video!

Love it man! Bought the exact same haywire harness! @kappykaiju gets new wires!

My father in law bought a 1930 model A. Its been converted to 12 volts. He just had turn signals installed. The wire that goes to the battery is actually hooked up to the alternator. My question is, the turn signal switch is hot all the time. And the switch is getting hot... all the wiring is wired correct. Other then the wire thats hooked to the alternator instead of the battery. Thank you for sharing your videos and the valuable information. .

GREAT info here Zach!... Can you advise of the Haywire part number for the harness you are showing in this video? If you revealed it I missed it. Thanks so much in advance!

I have the same truck a 50Ford f6

Great info, Zac. Thanks! I want to run an aluminum rad, and have not decided between a ‘32 full height and a Model A stock height. Do you know of any way to make the “look” right using the ‘32 unit with a non-channeled Model A body? Most I have seen cut the rad/grill shell.

Please do a video fixing the camber of an early Ford

I know it's 2 years later, but I have a question . Does this reducer also take care of the fuel gauge ?

I decided not to go due to the lack of promotion. I guess most of the promotion was on the senior citizen site Facebook.

been working on a 50' F1 my friend owns trying to figure out the Positive Ground system... the truck has been sitting in a basket the last 10 years! friend put the wiring harness back and wired up the starter switch or should i say Ignition switch...? seems to be wired Backwards the voltage appears at the ignition coil while the switch is Off voltage goes away when switched on I told him to disconnect the battery until The new 6 volt starter and solenoid comes in or the battery will run down.

Just wondering what the part number for that haywire relay was that you were holding up in your hand. I'm only need to run six switches and a relay like that but I can't find it on their website. Would you be able to help me with it basically a part number would be great

Great work America need guys like you

Wanna help me out with my 31

dig the channel man!

Is this the same type of brakes that would be on a 1951 Ford?

Good afternoon Wired Customs. I appreciate this video, thank you kindly. When doing the 6V to 12V conversion, Vintage Auto Garage (they are a huge help as well) recommends keeping the voltage regulator in place removing the wire for the generator and keeping the other wires still in place to the voltage regulator. I will be going to an alternator. My question is, can the voltage regulator be replaced with a new 6V voltage regulator or since I will be converting to 12V can I, do I, or should I replace it with a 12V voltage regulator and hook all those wires that are connected to the current 6V one for the exception of the generator wire. I know this seems like a lot to my question. I’m just trying to sort it out so it’s efficient, reliable, and safe. I have not started the conversion as of yet. Thank you in advance for your response. Stay safe, blessed, and well. 1950 Mercury Club Coupe.

Very nice looking old Ford. Sounds awesome.

I love your videos. Soooo much information and it made me reach out via email for help with a flathead transmission diagnosis and treatment. Unfortunately I never heard back, but I'm still trying to make good on the project. Keep the information flowing!

With the 12v conversion did you convert it to negative earth?

Sweet little truck !!

Core memory. ❤

Can I go for a ride please 🍻🍻👍

Wicked cool! So much to love! Thanks for sharing!

Nise😮

Zac, quick question. Do you know Aaron Dominguez? His last youtube video is a year old. Do you know what happened with him?

Zac, I have a 1948 F6 farm truck that I want to convert from 6V to 12V. I am a retired electronics technician, so I understand both wiring and circuits. I can “get into the weeds” if you will, to better understand how the gauges and circuits work. The fuel, temp, and oil pressure gauges are straight forward, and I can get a 12V to 6V conversion block that I can use for them. Here are some additional questions. 1. I am considering using the alternator you are describing as it bolts directly on the engine without having to monkey with mounting brackets. With only one wire and a 90A capability, what gauge wire will I need to use to connect it to the battery and then to the main fuseblock? According to an online wire gauge, it suggests that I need to use 4 gauge wire for a 100A system. Is that what you used for your truck? 2. I notice that you are running your alternator wire directly to the battery. Does that mean that the alternator has its own internal relay so that it doesn’t draw power from the battery when it isn’t running? 3. You feature a diagram of an “ammeter” at 11:29 on your video. That isn’t an ammeter, it is a voltmeter. Not the same thing. An ammeter must be placed in series with the line in order to measure current. A voltmeter is placed across the line to measure the voltage. The diagram is for a voltmeter. If the gauge is what you depict, it doesn’t measure current, and I would have to place a series resistor to use it to measure 12V instead of 6V although a 60Ω 10W resistor is doable if I could find one. A typical ammeter has a shunt resistor in parallel with the meter itself which is only rated for a small current capability. The main power is routed through the shunt allowing only the small current to the meter to read its proportion of the main current. The greater the current range, the smaller this resistance value must be. To use the 60Ω bimetal coil shown in the diagram as a true ammeter, it will draw 100ma at 6V. that means that in order to measure 50A at full scale, the shunt must carry the remaining 49.9A while producing a 6V voltage drop to run the meter. To do this, the shunt must have a resistance of .12Ω. I will have to cut the shunt resistance to .061Ω to achieve the 100A range I will need to use with a 90A alternator. The problem with this concept is two-fold: First, if I drop 6V across my ammeter, then only 6V is available for the rest of the system. I would have to run my battery and alternator to 18V in order to keep 12V to the system. The next problem is that dropping 6V across such a circuit consumes nearly 600W of power. Both are impractical and not going to happen. I need an ammeter that will only drop a few tenths of a volt and consume only a few watts of power at full range. That was what I was expecting the ammeter to do until I saw your diagram. I will have to rethink my idea of how to make this work. 4. I need to find a period correct cartridge fuseholder, but so far the ones available online are for the newer style plug-in fuses and they are marked for marine use. Do you know where I can get a cartridge fuseholder that I can label for my own circuits? I appreciate the video you made. It has given me insights into what I need to do to accomplish the conversion. Please reply directly to my e-mail below. Thank you. Brian Yerka Blackfoot, ID brianyerka@yahoo.com

Hi Zack. I am in the middle of switching from6 to 12 volt, thanks you you I got this far. I can't get the trim ring off my front parking lights. I took out one screw and the ring turns and is fairly losse but it won't come off. I don't want to force it so I thought I'd ask you. If anyone knows, you do. - 1942 Ford 3/4 ton pick-up. Thank you in advance !

Should I tell everybody that current flows from negative to positive? DC generators produce AC current? Only thing that produces DC current is a battery. Lots of utube videos done by folks that may not have as much knowledge as they think.

Pertronix always crap out on you in the dark when it's cold out. I tried 3 times, and each time, just after warranty, I had to have a tow truck get me and the wife home! She's had it with my hot rods. Yes, I had the right coil, and the correct wiring. Pertronix are crap! I'm down the parts and 850.00 in towing.

I like the comment the only only only dumb question is the one you are afraid to ask can i use a painless termianl for 1948 chevy fleetmaster